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Author Topic: Building a Gaming Rig  (Read 5605 times)

Ken

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Building a Gaming Rig
« on: 09 Jun 2011, 10:12 »

I'm thinking about building my next gaming machine.  Never done it before, so I'm wondering who has experience with constructing their own gaming PC, how much you spent, how long it took, what components you chose and why, where you shopped, what tools you needed, what hiccups could I anticipate, and generally whatever other advice you might have.  Please, share your knowledge and advice.  :)
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Casiella

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #1 on: 09 Jun 2011, 12:02 »

I did this again recently. Got everything at Newegg for under a grand (though I didn't need a new monitor). Main tool you need will be a screwdriver; I don't think I needed anything else.

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Crucifire

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #2 on: 09 Jun 2011, 13:00 »

Hah Casiella, that is the exact case I used for my brother's system. Does the job well and was decently roomy.

Being that I live on the west coast of Canada I get all my parts from NCIX and about $800CDN will get you a pretty spankin machine, minus monitor and peripherals. If you're putting it together yourself you'll probably want cable ties (zap straps as I like to call 'em) to keep cables from getting all over the place, in addition to a screwdriver.
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Kybernetes Moros

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #3 on: 09 Jun 2011, 13:11 »

Last time I built a computer was my current desktop two or three years back, so it's perhaps a little dated component-wise, but it does everything I've wanted it to thus far well.

Going from memory, it's the Antec 300 case (the same as Casi's above, incidentally) containing an MSI P55-CD53 motherboard, the Intel i5 750 CPU, nVidia GTX 260 as the GPU, some flavour of Kingston RAM amounting to 4GB and a Western Digital 1TB HDD of some description. Even then, some of the components could have been slightly better, but budget constraints were kinda tight, and as I said, it all continues to work well; if need be, I can go and look up the exact specs of the RAM and HDD, since I sure as hell don't remember them offhand. They all came from eBuyer, but that's a UK-based vendor; I hear good things about Newegg for the States?

I didn't need anything bar a screwdriver in terms of tools, and the assembly didn't take me long, maybe a few hours. Nothing was particularly difficult in terms of putting it all together when I referred to the materials that came with the components for the less self-explanatory bits, and honestly it probably took longer to get Windows 7 installed and online than it did to set the computer itself up -- networks hate me. The main bit of advice that springs to mind is to make sure you've grounded yourself to prevent static charge messing with the components, not shuffling about on carpets in socks or whatever while you're building it and so on.
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Seriphyn

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #4 on: 09 Jun 2011, 13:14 »

I went to one of these non-franchise shops run by a bunch of guys who do it because it's their hobby and passion. Say "I want this made for me, with this budget" and bam.

Cost £1911 for my latest rig, a superquiet case, i7-2600k, 8GB RAM, 2x 580GTX in SLI etc.

If I got it on a brand-made machine like shitty Alienware or HP, would have cost £3000 for slightly less specs (ie. 6GB RAM)
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Lydia Tishal

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #5 on: 09 Jun 2011, 13:44 »

I built my current machine back in 2004 (!) so I'm well out of date regarding components. But just a few thoughts. . .

- Newegg is your friend. We use them religously at work. Very reliable and best selection and prices to be had. Just bear in mind that there is no tech support. They do have a fairly generous return policy though.

- Mounting the processor to the motherboard is probably the trickest part of the operation. Make sure you buy thermal paste that uses actual silver. If you're not comfortable doing this (I think it's pretty simple these days, actually) you can probably pick up a motherboard with the processor pre-attached.

- Don't neglect your power supply. It's not a flashy part, but this is where most people go wrong. Looking at the wattage rating is not enough. Power supplies have three voltage lines, called "rails", which deliver DC power at 3, 5 and 12 volts. Video cards run on the 12 volt rail and can take a lot of power. Make sure you get a power supply that can deliver enough amperage on its 12 volt rail to support your video card. Some supplies have a second, dedicated 12 V rail for the video card. If you have a monster card or are planning on running two cards at once, look for this. Cable management on a power supply is a God send.

- If you've never done it before, be prepared to spend some time connecting all of the cables to the headers on your motherboard. A lot of the motherboard manuals have been "localized" into English and the headers can be hard to reach unless you have very small hands.

- On cases. . .aluminum is much lighter and will shed heat better. Steel is cheaper and will hold up better. I have had problems cramming high end power supplies and video cards into standard sized cases. I prefer server cases for this reason, but they can get ridiculous. A loaded steel server case is heavy. I love the one I have, but I have a hard time moving it by myself. Bottom mounted power supplies free up a lot of room in the case, but keep a can of compressed air handy and be aware that they tend to hoover up a lot of dust and lint. I don't recommend cases with see-through sides-- the plastic has different expansion characteristics than the metal, and over the years this can lead to rattle problems.

- Check the specs on your memory. My information on this is out of date, but pay attention to the clock speed and latency. Lower latency is better, and there is a relationship between the clock speed on the memory and the FSB speed on the motherboard. I do not remember exactly what that is-- if you don't know, ask someone who does.  ECC (error correction code?) is something for servers and is not needed for a gaming machine.

- Keep yourself grounded, especially if you live somewhere with low humidity. I usually try to keep one hand (or bare arm) touching the case to keep from building up a charge. If you are a really zappy person, you can pick up an anti-static wrist band pretty cheap.  Try to avoid touching exposed contacts on parts.
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Lyn Farel

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #6 on: 09 Jun 2011, 15:12 »

Pretty much what Lydia said.

I have been building my own computers for some time now (because I can usually spare more than 30% of the usual prices offered in large stores/malls, the thing to avoid because their configs are utter crap and not very good price wise). If you have some resellers and small private shops around, you might want to take an eye with them (at your own risks, do not go anywhere blindly, some people are not very trustworthy when it comes to replacement or warranty). Don't know how it is in other countries but the chinese district nearby has incredible prices compared to the rest.

- Choose your case wisely, some of them are maybe more expensive, but they can also offer a damn welcomed ergonomic side with backward storage for all the wiring, or screwless storage racks for hard drives, dvd drives, etc.

- If you are not sure to be able to handle the motherboard/cpu integration (with the delicate thermic paste part of the operation, which is quite easy actually), try to find a seller that also offers to build your config for you. If you want to learn though, if you know someone that knows what he is talking about, then ask him to show you. Or just follow carefully the user guides because eventually, it is not very hard.

- The hard part is actually to know what to buy, and in what order. I usually try to look at first which cpu i want. Depending on the CPU choice will depend the choice of the motherboard (because they are cpu socket specific). Then the motherboard should offer you the last in terms of RAM memory and USB capability, so be sure to look for latest motherboards and not old ones (but if you buy a new CPU and not an outdated one, the motherboard will be in line). Then you have done half of the work (because there is a crapload of manufacturers for motherboards, so I usually go for my favorites : Gygabite or Asus, though I prefer Gigabyte). Choosing between Intel and AMD for the CPU depends on your tastes, mostly. I like Intel because they are currently more advanced in terms of performances, but both are good. The new i3, i5, i7 generation of cpus is a good bet (have an i5 myself). The memory is the tricky part. You can now find quite cheap basic memory that works decently, or go for more powerful memory (and you will feel the difference I guarantee that, if you choose a 2133 MHz DDR3 instead of a basic 1600 MHz one). Both work in any case, depending on your budget. Then, choose your graphic card... ATI or nvidia, the eternal war. I like nvidia (and hate ATI from my own experience), but both are very performant, nvidia maybe a little more expensive but generally less heath and slightly  more performant, but I may be wrong. In any case ATI is well known for their good deals/prices.

[spoiler]In more technical details :

- CPU : what is important is the number of cores of course (if you have a 2GHz cpu with 4 cores, it will be 4x 2GHz, depending if the software you use manage this or not). The slot socket standard number is the most important part : it will determine the kind motherboard on which it will actually fit. So you will go for motherboard created for this specific socket when you will come to choose it. Etching -> the lower the better (faster, less heath, more performant), current standard is around 45 nm. CPU cache L1/L2 and L3. Higher the better, it is the processor memory layer acting before the RAM memory. L1/L2 is around 1-2 Mb, a good L3 is around 8Mb.

- Motherboard : what suits you best : look for the number of USB ports, PCI internal slots if you have a lot of PCI cards to insert, PCI express (PCI-e x16) slots for the graphic card (2, 3 or 4 if you are going to put several GCs in). More generally look for all the ports offered by the motherboard and see it it suits you or not. Check if the mother board supports the SATA-3 standard (for hard drives) and USB 3. Better to go for it now, would be a shame to take an outdated model not supporting those (they are awesome). And very important : be sure the motherboard supports DDR3 memory, as you are probably going to buy DDR3 (current standard, DDR2 is outdated).

- Memory : DDR3 i suppose. Goes from around 1600 MHz (PCI 12800) up to 2300-2500 MHz for the best ones (or maybe more who knows...). The best ones are expensive. Be sure to take at least 4Gb of it (more is advised, like 6Gb, but 4 is totally ok.. 2 is too short though). CAS latency (CL) is a little advanced and specific, but if you are into it... it basically means the lower the faster. You will get 4 numbers (like 9-9-9-24). But anyway, this is what can make a little difference between 2 identical memory racks : some are more suited to AMD sockets, and somre are specifically designed for Intel sockets. Corsair or G-Skills are good brands imo. I always use G-Skill personnally, very nice memories.

- Graphic Card : check the output ports (DVI, HDMI, etc). The frequency is not very important. Best way to go for a model is to browse benchmarks on the internet between several models (ATI and nvidia), check different sites, different games, then see if they are worth their price or not. Manufacturers side : Zotac, Asus, Gigabyte, Twintech are good for nvidia ; Asus, Sapphire for ATI mostly if Im right.

- CPU fan and radiator : Totally optionnal as this is usually sold with the cpu, but the one sold with the cpu is usually pretty basic and noisy. You might want to get a better one (more durable, the basic ones tend to stop suddenly to work after one or 2 years, happened to me several times). Anyway Noctua is a very good brand (very, very silent).

- Hardrives : take SATA-3, its the current standard (and fucking fast with Sata 3 compatible motherboards, like 60Mb/s at peak on transfers). DO NOT TAKE GENERIC stuff, period. Hardrives also tend to fail after 3 or 5 years of use anyway, so if you already have some but old, maybe it is time to be cautious (or use save drives somewhere).

- Power supply : pretty much what Lydia said. The power must be sufficient to handle the GC (above 500W now for the good GCs). Check how many connectors you have available too (might be a little annoying if you can't power everything in your new shiney computer). Note that there is also a totally new kind of power supplies that is TOTALLY AWESOME : modulable power supplies -> on standard ones the supply cables are fixed on them, but here you actually have cable slots and can choose which cables you plug, and this has 2 major advantages : more versatile, and also not a fuckfest of scrambled cables everywhere. There is also another thing that is quite handy : the 80+ certification, meaning that the power supply will only consume less than 20% of its maximum consumption if it is running under 80% of its performance, which is very appreciable (and green).

Im not going for the rest of the little stuff around (dvd drives, burners, etc), not very important, take what you like. Sorry for the wall of text. Hope it helps.[/spoiler]


Rule number 1 : always decide of EVERYTHING before going to buy.
« Last Edit: 09 Jun 2011, 15:20 by Lyn Farel »
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Yoshito Sanders

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #7 on: 09 Jun 2011, 23:35 »

NO! I did this. I fucked up somehow. My rig crashes at random intervals. I don't know why. I thought I knew what I was doing, but it appears I did not. It's an awesome rig, but the random crashing blows chunks.

Of course, I am drunk right now and saying ALL SORTS of crazy stuff. But still, I fucked up on building my own. Only do it if you know what you're doing (not just think you know. I thought I knew and screwed up.)
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Mizhara

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #8 on: 11 Jun 2011, 00:49 »

Building your own is easy if you get help the first time (which you're doing).

I stopped doing that, though, when it turns out I don't really save any real money doing it.
There's a ton of places where you can custom order a computer you've chosen all components for, and they'll build it for you.

Usually gets you a warranty and support deal at the same time, which home-built doesn't.

Then again, I just ordered an Alienware m17x r3 laptop, so I don't get to talk about saving money.
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Lyn Farel

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #9 on: 11 Jun 2011, 05:40 »


Usually gets you a warranty and support deal at the same time, which home-built doesn't.


Depends, every piece you buy actually has a warranty too. Not always as long as a full built computer (depends of the piece, RAM or CPUs are up to 3 years warranty while CGs are up to 1 year warranty). I usually have a small warranty from the reseller (the first 2 weeks for a change if something does not work properly or if you are not satisfied, then usually 6 months for the true warranty). Then you have to send back the component to the manufacturer to use their warranty.

Maybe it varies depending on the country (especially for the resellers), but I doubt it in the case of the international manufacturers.
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Mizhara

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #10 on: 11 Jun 2011, 06:04 »

Oh, there's a bit of a warranty, sure. Support goes out the window though.
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Ken

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #11 on: 12 Jun 2011, 12:55 »

Thanks for all the tips and input so far.  I really appreciate the help and advice.  The cost of the project is really no object for me, but I still want to get top of the line components without massively overpaying for only a small amount of extra performance.  Case weight and dexterity for assembly aren't really concern either.  So starting with cases, I want to have plenty of room for expansion and air flow and am looking at something full sized like the Antec 1200.  The DF-85, which is apparently based on it, looks nice but I'm not sure if I'll really need the additional features.  I'm looking at the Intel i7 processors for a CPU and like the price to power the i7-960 seems to offer, probably putting a Gigabyte motherboard like this one underneath it with a 750 or 850W PSU.

Some follow up questions:

How hard is setting up two GPUs with SLI?
And how about putting two HDDs in a RAID 1 config?
How about sound cards and network devices?
« Last Edit: 12 Jun 2011, 13:59 by Ken »
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Kyoko Sakoda

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #12 on: 12 Jun 2011, 23:43 »

The only thing you need for SLI is two cards of the same model and an SLI bridge (which comes with just about every card), and it simply snaps between the top of the two cards once they're seated. I'd suggest mid-range models for these, because if you research the benchmarks there's typically more bang for your buck if you put two cards under $300/ea. together. Two 560 Ti cards is a popular setup for this right now, because the next step up (two 570s) will add $200.

I'm an audiophile and can't stand integrated audio. I also wouldn't recommend Creative for their software is dreadful. Go with Asus; their software is bad but not nearly as bad. You can get anything in their Xonar lineup; since I care about SNR I have a DX, but the DS is only $50.
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Ken

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #13 on: 13 Jun 2011, 09:02 »

These are the components I'm looking at currently:

Case: Antec Twelve Hundred V3
PSU: CORSAIR CMPSU-850TX 850W
Board: GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s
CPU: Intel Core i7-960 Bloomfield 3.2GHz
HDD: 2x Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB 5900 RPM in RAID 1
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3
GPU: 2x MSI N460GTX CYCLONE 1GD5/OC GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB in SLI
Audio: ASUS Xonar D1 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz
Net: Intel PWLA8391GT 10/ 100/ 1000Mbps PCI PRO
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit
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Casiella

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Re: Building a Gaming Rig
« Reply #14 on: 13 Jun 2011, 09:09 »

If you haven't already, be sure to add up the power draws. 850W feels low to me these days, especially if you're driving 2x GPUs, 2x HDs, and an i7.
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